The table below is meant to reflect broad-sweeping general recommendations for socket pairings, but there are exceptions. For example, there are T8 plug-and-play LEDs made to work with rapid-start ballasts and programmed-start ballasts, requiring non-shunted sockets. Always double check with your lighting specialist or Peerless Electric representative to know what sockets you need prior to placing your order. However, it is easy to convert a non-shunted socket into a shunted socket, but not the reverse.
Lamp/Ballast | Socket Type |
T12 | Non-shunted |
T8 with rapid-start, programmed-start, or dimming ballast | Non-shunted |
T8 with instant-start ballast | Shunted
*Non-shunted (with external wire shunt) |
T5 with rapid-start, programmed-start, or dimming ballast | Non-shunted |
T5 with instant-start ballast | Shunted |
LED T8 plug-and-play | Shunted |
Single-ended LED T8 direct wire (or ballast-bypass) | Non-shunted |
Double-ended LED T8 direct wire (or ballast-bypass) | Most compatible with Shunted and Non-shunted |
LED T8 remote driver | Non-shunted |
LED T5 plug-and-play | Shunted |
In specifying which type of socket to bet use, in is also important to select the appropriate LED or Fluorescent tube, compatible with your selection. For example, LED tubes are available as single ended or double ended tubes. Single-ended LED tubes take input power from one end of the fixture, which means that one has to connect the live and neutral wires to one side of the light fixture. Double-ended LED tubes get input power from both the ends.
“UL Type A” – These LED tube lights are designed to be compatible with fluorescent ballasts.
The UL Type A LED tube light essentially behaves the same a fluorescent lamp, and is a straightforward swap-in. If the fixture has a Ballast and operated with Fluorescent tubes, you can install a Type A LED tube. (Check the spec for the type of ballast support – some support all ballasts, others only support instant start ballasts, magnetic ballasts, rapid start ballasts etc…
“UL Type B” tubes are not compatible with fluorescent ballasts, they are wired directly to mains.
Usually, the LED driver, however, is integrated into the LED tube itself. It is usually easy to bypass the fluorescent ballast by wiring AC main to 1 socket and neutral to the opposite end.
UL Type B LED tubes can further be categorized as single-ended or double ended.
In a single-ended configuration, only the two pins on one end of the tube are used (one pin = live; one pin = neutral), and the two pins on the other end are not electrically functional, and only used for holding the lamp in place.
For single-ended configurations, the direction in which a lamp is installed is important – incorrect configurations can lead to a lamp that does not illuminate, or a potentially hazardous fire risk. Single-ended configurations will typically have a sticker label on one end of the tube with the words “AC INPUT” or similar. Some single-ended configurations can accept power from either end.
In a double-ended configuration, the two pins on each side of the tube are the same polarity. Therefore, the lampholders on one end of the tube must be connected to [neutral], while the other must be connected to [line].